Austria

Mauthausen Concentration Camp – last trip we visited Dachau, so after some research we settled on Mauthausen.  It is a little different in that it was built to incarcerate criminals and supposed political and ideological opponents of the 3^rd Reich. It did not start taking Jews and prisoners of war until 1943.  It was however, a category 3 which had the harshest conditions and one of the highest death rates.  Over 100,000 inmates ‘died’.  I had no idea how many concentration camps there were in Germany, Austria, Poland and the other occupied Eastern European countries.  Again it is beyond comprehension that people can treat other human beings that way and still sleep at night.  Very sobering.

We continued our journey via the scenic route which followed the Danube.  Beautiful as both banks are dotted with castles, monasteries, medieval villages and lined with terraced vineyards.  Lots of barges and river cruise boats.

Vienna

Whew! Hot again.  Sent Greg on a ‘recon’ of the camp to locate a TV to watch the opening of the Olympics.  Returned rather sheepishly saying he felt like a stalker peering through caravan windows!  No camp TV so we’ll have to watch it on the internet when we have Wi-Fi. 

We hadn’t been to Vienna before.  Rather lovely.  Filled with ostentatious buildings and beautifully tended parks which makes it a pleasant city to explore by foot.

Highlights:

Day one - Hofburg, the summer palace of the Habsburgs – especially the Sisi Museum which looked at the life and personality of the Empress. A woman ahead of her times she used exercise equipment, rebelled against court ceremony and travelled incessantly.  She was assassinated by a radical in Geneva.  Our tour of the Opera House was another standout.
Day 2: the Habsburg’s summer palace - Schonbrunn and the Hundertwasser Museum.  Very cool! The Art Gallery itself is very Hundertwasser/Gaudi like with irregular elements like an uneven floor, misshapen windows and mixture of glass, metal and brick and ceramic tiles.  Tomorrow driving to Prague.

Quirky Stuff

Vienna would be the city of Museums.  The Museum of: Funerals, Torture, Crime, Contraception and Abortion, Folklore, Porcelain, Carriages. Trams, Clocks, Theatre, Music and many museums housing paintings … the list goes on and

Austria/Germany 24^th – 26^th July

Salzburg – my favourite city from our 1990 trip.  Bikes out again.  We bought the ‘Salzburg Card’ and spent the next 48 hours visiting everything in the area that we could.  Love to get good value for our money and we did!  The Fortress, catacombs, a river trip, a cable car ride and more.

On our second day we popped back to Germany to visit Eagle’s Nest which is perched atop a sheer sided peak. It was given to Hitler for his 50^th birthday.  It is said that Hitler suffered from vertigo and rarely enjoyed the spectacular views himself.  The road up is certainly impressive, as is the brass elevator to reach the top.  Wasn’t a great day weather wise but we explored the area in the cloud and had a yummy hot chocolate at the restaurant.

While in the area we went to the Berchtsgaden Salt Mine.  After donning attractive overalls we were whisked by a little train deep into the mine.  Very clever use of audio visual techniques to explain the extraction process.  We descended to the two levels via a slide – great fun and the friction warmed our bottoms! 

Today before we left we revisited Hellbrunn – the Pleasure Palace of the Salzburg Archbishops, famous for its trick fountains.  Greg volunteered to sit at the dining table and ended up with a very wet crotch as water squirted up through a hole in the seat.  Nick caught it on camera.  I ended up with a wet bottom when I was ambushed from behind!  All in good fun.  Tomorrow we visit Mauthausen Concentration camp near Linz.

Germany

Day 1 – Bavaria - all those German stereotypes rolled into one – and yes people do still wear lederhosen’s and some of the beer hall do have oompah bands!

Lots of window boxes and I even spotted a few cows with bells.

Germany

Day 1 – Bavaria

All those German stereotypes rolled into one – and yes people do still wear lederhosen’s and some of the beer hall do have oompah bands! Lots of window boxes and I even spotted a few cows with bells.

We revisited Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein – Mad Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle that Fantasyland was based on.  Bleak and cold – had to ferret out the jeans (and yes they still fit – just) and thermals.  What a see-saw of temperatures we’ve experienced lately – what’s a girl to wear?  Back to the castles.  What a slick operation.  A bit different to 20 years ago when you went in and did your own thing.  Not so today - tour guides, allotted times, buses to transport you up the hill – all at a cost of course.  They also have a new museum covering the history of the Bavarian Kings. Very interesting.

Day 2 & 3 Munich

Sustained by German pastries we picked up an excellent walking tour with a knowledgeable Irish guide – you pay what you think the tour is worth – a novel idea and it works. We were lucky as our tour only had 7 in it!  Lots of facts and quirky information.  He also gave us a bit of background information on the 3^rd Reich from its beginnings in a beer haus (house).  Even political parties in Bavaria today launch their campaigns from beer houses today!

We quelled our rumbling stomachs with pork knuckles and beer at the Augustiner Beer House- reputedly the best beer in Munich – brewed on site and frequented by locals.  Complete with black draft horses stabled behind glass on the way to the loo!   The German across the table from Nick and I had spent 2 months touring NZ.  He recognised our Kathmandu sweat shirts!

We followed this with a bit of culture and visited the national Museum.  A well rounded day!  

Munich Day 2

Sun shining but a cold wind.  Today was our ‘Education Day’.  We spent the whole day at my favourite museum ‘The Deutsch Museum’.  It houses one of the largest natural science and technical collections in the world.  A great teaching resource.  It’s huge and covers 5 floors.  My favourite sections were mining where you walked through coal, potash and salt mines all in the bowels of the museum and the shipping and maritime area.  This had a full size U boat, an Eskimo seal skin kayak and a model of a liner cross sectioned to show the different cabins and heaps of other cool stuff!!.  Perhaps you had to be there!  Off to Austria tomorrow and back to Germany later.

Pastries

Germany has pastries to rival France!  My current favourite is a peach concoction.  Michelle’s is apfelstrudel and Nick and Greg is whatever takes their fancy in the day!

German sausages and beer

Nick and Greg are spending a small fortune as they sample Germany’s finest!!

Sorry I have not had internet for some time but am alive and kicking!  Here are my latest updates.

Venice 13^th July

 I am sitting here in our camping ground, red wine beside me looking across the water at Venice.

Since my last post we’ve walked the Plitvice Lakes.  Fortunately the weather was a little cooler.  The boardwalks and trails provided access to the forested areas and the 16 lakes ranging in colour from azure to green, grey and blue.  Last time I saw a water snake.  No such luck this time or any brown bears that supposedly inhabit the forest.  However, the picturesque scenery more than made up for that.  Off to explore Venice tomorrow.  

 14^th July

Venice is as charming as I remembered.  Did the usual touristy things- The Basilica di San Marco (which houses the remains of St Mark which two Venetian merchants stole from Alexandria – very enterprising of them!), caught the vaporetta to Murano, window shopped.  The boys had a VERY expensive beer -15 euros (that’s each beer!)  We also went to an excellent show called ‘Venezia’ which covered the history and traditions of Venice through a dramatic presentation and surround projections. We were fortunate to be there on the Fiesta de Redentore” which culminated with a huge fireworks display.  Think World Cup and triple it and that’s being conservative!  Pretty spectacular.

16 – 19^th July - Hello from Switzerland the land of knives and watches!

Lovely to return to one of my favourite places in the world.  After all what’s not to love – cobalt lakes ringed by magnificent mountains, candy coloured or wooden chalets with window boxes full of brightly coloured flowers dotting the lush, green hillsides or clustered together creating quaint little villages.  With the cooler temperatures we’ve had the bikes out again and used them to see the sites of the beautiful medieval towns of Lucerne and Bern. And yes the scenery takes your breath away.  No more so than the Interlaken region.  We again stayed in the Lauterbrunnen and used this as a base to explore the area.  The sheer rock faces and towering mountains leave one in awe.

On our first day here we rode to the Timmelbach Falls where the water corkscrews through ravines and potholes shaped by the swirling waters inside the mountain.  20,000 litres a second pours down from the glacier and it is something to watch Mother Nature at work.

Day two we caught the early bird cog train (as it’s cheaper) to ‘the top of Europe’ – the Jungfraujoch.  Not a cloud in the sky. On the way up we were able to see the north face of the Eiger in the viewing window.  (Last time it was shrouded in cloud) Although it was brilliant sunshine at the top, we were all glad of our buffer jackets (thank goodness for Kathmandu and Macpac! – yes we ‘40 somethings’ keep them afloat).  Of course the view was breath-taking.  This year is their 100 anniversary so we received a special ‘centenary railway passport’.  Always good to get something free!  We decided to walk part of the way back.  We wended our way down walking next to alpine meadows full of wild flowers while we gazed up at the glaciers and mountains accompanied by the sound of cowbells tingling. (honest they still use cowbells).  Quite magical.  Just like I imagined Heidi’s world.

On our last day we again did an early bird deal (cheapskates you say - more money to spend on nibbles and wine we say).  We cable-cared to another peak called the Schilthorn.  Great panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and three tallest local mountains - the Eiger, Jungfruajoch and Monch).  Scenes from the James Bond movie’ On Her Majesties Secret Service were filmed there.  (That’s the one where the baddie gets munched up in the snow machine and stared George Lasenby)  It also has a revolving restaurant which we just had to visit and have a hot chocolate.  Off to Germany next.

Croatia

Well we’ve finally arrived after a rather convoluted journey.  After Meteora we drove north and camped at a beach ready to head to, Croatia travelling over the top of Albania as we’d done before.  It is impossible to get car or medical insurance for the Balkan states so we made a last minute decision and drove to the Ioumenitsa on the west coast and caught an overnight ferry to Italy and then another ferry to Dubrovnik.  A more expensive option but safer.

Dubrovnik is as beautiful as I remembered it but the hottest we’ve encountered yet due to the high humidity.  Everyone walking the walled city had clothing with tell-tale wet patches.  Even a young Aussie who works in the mines was struggling with the heat.  Apart from the spectacular views from the walls the two highlights for me were a wonderful little Ethnographic Museum we discovered as we explored the narrow streets.  It had all sorts of items and photos of everyday life and work and traditional dress and customs.  The second was two photographic exhibitions.  The first covered  the breakup of Yugoslavia, including the Srebrenica genocide.  The second was called ‘Bosnians’ and commemorated the 20^th anniversary of the beginning of the Bosnian war.  Very thought provoking especially as we were in Yugoslavia the year before war broke out .  Hard to comprehend the suffering endured by these people and how war drives ordinary men to turn on their neighbours and commit such monstrous actions.

The drive up the Dalmatian coastline is stunning. I’d forgotten how magnificent it is.  I am writing to you from the island of Hvar (yet another car ferry trip).  It is 9.30pm and I’ve spent the last half hour floating in the tepid waters of the Adriatic Sea watching the fiery red sun sink slowly behind a neighbouring island.  Only way to try and keep cool!  Off to explore the island tomorrow.    

Croatia

Well we’ve finally arrived after a rather convoluted journey.  After Meteora we drove north and camped at a beach ready to head to, Croatia travelling over the top of Albania as we’d done before.  It is impossible to get car or medical insurance for the Balkan states so we made a last minute decision and drove to the Ioumenitsa on the west coast and caught an overnight ferry to Italy and then another ferry to Dubrovnik.  A more expensive option but safer.

Dubrovnik is as beautiful as I remembered it but the hottest we’ve encountered yet due to the high humidity.  Everyone walking the walled city had clothing with tell-tale wet patches.  Even a young Aussie who works in the mines was struggling with the heat.  Apart from the spectacular views from the walls the two highlights for me were a wonderful little Ethnographic Museum we discovered as we explored the narrow streets.  It had all sorts of items and photos of everyday life and work and traditional dress and customs.  The second was two photographic exhibitions.  The first covered  the breakup of Yugoslavia, including the Srebrenica genocide.  The second was called ‘Bosnians’ and commemorated the 20^th anniversary of the beginning of the Bosnian war.  Very thought provoking especially as we were in Yugoslavia the year before war broke out .  Hard to comprehend the suffering endured by these people and how war drives ordinary men to turn on their neighbours and commit such monstrous actions.

The drive up the Dalmatian coastline is stunning. I’d forgotten how magnificent it is.  I am writing to you from the island of Hvar (yet another car ferry trip).  It is 9.30pm and I’ve spent the last half hour floating in the tepid waters of the Adriatic Sea watching the fiery red sun sink slowly behind a neighbouring island.  Only way to try and keep cool!  Off to explore the island tomorrow.    

Central Greece

Yesterday we visited Delphi on the slope of Mt Parnassas – the centre of the world according to the ancient Greeks and once the wealthiest place in Greece.  Pilgrims travelled to consult the oracle (wish I had her skills set).  The site included the Temple of Apollo, an amphitheatre, a stadium where the Pythian games were held every 4 years (sound familiar?), a great museum and lots of steps!

Today we went to Meteora.  Magnificent is one word to describe the 6 monasteries perched dramatically on the top of enormous rocky pinnacles.  Their shape reminded me of a larger version of the Olgas without the colour.   The museums in the largest monastery were outstanding, especially the sections displaying a comprehensive selection of traditional costumes, military and church attire through the ages and all with English explanations.  A bonus! Of course lots of steps once again.  I counted 347 steps to one monastery which is why I am allowed a mojito right now while I type.

Good news on the pool front – Apart from Athens which is a very old camp (very clean and lovely staff though) all the camping grounds in Greece have pools with water in them!  A nice welcome after a day climbing steps in the sun.  Heading to Croatia within the next few days.

Subject: The Greek Islands

First stop – Two nights on Mykonos, the party Island so we are told.  Also called ‘The Windy Island’ and so it was while we were there.  We didn’t mind as it kept the temperature down.  We spent day one exploring the main township – Chora.  We wandered through ‘Little Venice’ where the sea almost laps up to the bars and restaurants.  There we came across Petros the Pelican, apparently an old celebrity of the water front, who has been the official mascot of Mykonos for over 50 years.  I’d forgotten how huge they are.  There are 3 resident pelicans.  Children were stroking one and as it closed its eyes in ecstasy it almost looked like it was purring!  We then went to see the lovely blue and white church which clings to the cliff edge and Chora’s famous windmill and yes you guessed it – they are blue and white too.  We had a lovely meal out at a restaurant recommended by our host.  We returned there the next night.

Day 2 we hired a car and spent the day exploring Mykonos.  No wonder the American girls next to us got lost.  Mykonos is a warren of twisty, narrow roads and some sort of a vehicle is a must to get around.  The young girl on the other side of us has broken ribs and foot – hence we opted for the more sedate option rather than quad bikes.  ‘With age comes wisdom’ or maybe just a lack of the need for excitement offered by such modes of transport!  Mykonos is stony and barren but has lots of lovely beaches.  We sort out a quiet beach rather than one crowded with beach umbrellas and loungers for hire and lots of people.  It also had this amazing Taverna that we had been recommended.  The food was to die for!  They have the most delicious selection of salads of which I chose 4 and shared these with Nick.  Tabouli was one Col – and I have to say it was up to your high standard.  To accompany the salads, the four of us shared a barbequed squid. Tender and tasty- what a treat.  Something new to try on the bbq when we return home.  If only I could replicate the large bean salad.  It was particularly yummy!  We all swam in the inviting, but surprisingly chilly waters of the Aegean Sea.

Second stop- 2 nights on Santorini. Also windy here.  Sheer lava cliffs rise up from the blue Aegean Sea topped off by cliff top towns that look like a sprinkling of icing sugar.  Much greener as grapes grow everywhere – an ancient variety which grow along the ground, as it is too windy to stake them and it also protects the fruit.  They primarily produce a desert wine though, we have bought a bottle of red to try.  To save time we once again hired a car to explore the Island.  We drove first to Fira – the main town which perches on top of the caldera (volcanic crater) with the old port below.  Tour boats dock here and visitors can reach the town via the 588 steps up the steep cliff but most use the cable car or donkeys (very uncomfortable I am told!).  Lots of lovely jewellery – if only we had more time to shop (sigh –wistful from me, relief from Nick).  Seeing pictures of Santorini I assumed Fira would be all blue and white but, not so.  Oia is the only village with this colour scheme.  Here we of course took all the standard photos Santorini is famous for.  Lots of shops, very touristy but beautiful.  We had a delicious lunch at a little café with a stunning outlook over the Aegean Sea –magical!  Most of the beaches have black sand – not fine as we know it but grainy.  ‘Red Beach which earns its name from the rocks in the cliff face towering above as well as the red sand was worth the climb over the very rocky trail to check out.  Very isolated but there they were ‘the rent an umbrella and chaise lounges for € 8, crowd!  We finished the evening with a scrumptious meal at a local Taverna on the beach front.